The Winter Palace

Dismissing all advice from friends and family who thought we would literally freeze to death, Kim and I headed to Russia for a post holiday trip. In hopes of having the most unique experience possible we settled on St. Petersburg — known for their caviar and vodka. We didn’t have any caviar, but we did try a little vodka. Ok a lot of Vodka!
St. Petersburg was an eerie city that at many times felt like it was struggling with its new democracy. It was not uncommon to see elderly soldiers sitting on street corners, wearing their old uniforms and longing for a post to guard. Songs like “Purple Rain” and “Like a Virgin” were brand new to many residents who partook in the impromptu dance parties that happened after dinner in most restaurants. The women, who were the most beautiful I have seen in the World including the U.S., dressed as if they had been cast in the 1984 movie “Breakin’ 2 Electric Boogaloo.” Admiring the residents as we walked around, we would constantly make comments about how pretty a girl was and then follow it up with a snipe about the fact she was wearing patent leather knee high boots, silk stockings and a mini skirt in 30 degree weather.
St. Petersburg was a surreal place, mostly because the sun didn’t come up till 10:30 am and, not once passing overhead, would set at 3:15 pm. But there was also a sense of extravagance there unmatched by anywhere else I have traveled. The cities historical architecture, mainly commissioned by Peter the Great, was lavish to say the least. There were no typical buildings. The Church on Spilled Blood (below) was a specific example.
The Church on Spilled Blood

You could look at a single structure for hours and still not notice all the intricate details. Take the Hermitage Museum — a massive structure made up of six buildings, one of which was the Winter Palace of Peter himself. If the outside wasn’t impressive its collection is probably the largest in the world — someone told us if you spent three minutes looking at each piece in the museum it would take 20 years to get through the whole place. It took us four hours just to fly through one floor in one building.
Part of the Hermitage

Another piece of amazing architecture was the Mariinsky Theater where we took in a performance of the Nutcracker. The beauty of this venue was seriously breathtaking and during intermissions you were able to explore the guts and hidden rooms of this palacial masterpiece.
The Nutcracker at the Mariinsky Theater

Food was extravagant as well and if your taste-buds are satisfied with heavy cream sauces and robust meat dishes than St. Petersburg is the right place for you. There are not many greens veggies served, just a lot of root vegetables such as beets, which accounts for all the borscht. One of my favorite dishes was Pelmeni — a meat stuffed dumpling that would come in either a clear broth or tomato sauce. Another standout dish was the beef stroganoff, which is served a variety of different ways including in a brown gravy over rice or noodles or with a red cream sauce.
Dinning rooms tended to be extremely lavish even in nonexpensive places.

A standout restaurant we visited was the Krockodil located on a street called Galenaria. When I say this was the scariest street I have ever been down in my life I am not exaggerating. The whole block was dug up and under construction which meant from the step of any building it was a four foot drop into a pit that was once a street. There was no street lamps, people or noise absent of our own feet trudging through the mud. I could hear my mom scolding me for being anywhere near this place. Even when we found the restaurant we weren’t sure we had found anything. The hardest part of Russia is the cyrillic alphabet they use. For example, this was what is written on the sign outside the restaurant “крокодил.” To us that didn’t say Krockodil, Crocodile, Alligator or any other reptile.But once inside we new we had found the right place. A tiny little locals-only style bistro serving Russian-French fare. This was the kind of place where you stay all night and take your time. A pre-dinner cocktail slowly transitions into a salad or appetizer and so on and so on. It was a gem on a very tragic street. Like all Russian restaurants we visited, Krockodil had a menu that was at least 30 pages long. I guess the chefs in Russia aim to please because on all menus you could find the house specialties and then one of every other type of food you can imagine, from chicken parmesan to sushi. I tried the beef stroganoff at Krockodil and it was like my mother used to make from a recipe she stole from my Lithuanian grandmother.
Another spot worth checking out was The Idiot. A very cool, hip hangout where you can grab snacks while lounging on estate furniture. The place is designed to feel like an old, welcoming home and the menu reflects the snarky nature of the restaurant/bar. You can order a “Gentlemen’s Kit,” which is a plate of pickled everything, cured beef, a bottle of vodka and includes a trip to the hospital if you need it. They also offer a challenge for a free dinner to anyone who can drink 40 thimbles of vodka in 30 minutes.
The Idiot

If you are like us and take pride in finding that bar down an alley, through a store, up a fire escape and behind a curtain than you should seek out Fish Fabrique. Its an intimate cafe and live music club secretly located inside an Art Center that itself is a labyrinth of doors and outdoor alleys. It’s a good place for a beer and a game of foozeball and to us felt like the most amazing place in the whole city because it was so hard to find. Also located in the Art Center is the Office of the John Lennon Temple of Love, Peace and Music – a sight you don’t see everyday.
Fish Fabrique

That’s it for now but more to come soon on my travels to Russia and Scandinavia. Below you can find a recipe for Pelmeni I found online. Give it a try and let me know how it comes out. Giddy Up!
The Shep
PELMENI
Ingredients
1 1/2 cups flour
2 eggs
1/2 cup water
1/2 tsp. salt
1/2 lb. ground beef
1/2 lb. ground pork
2 medium onions, finely chopped
1 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. black pepper
garlic to taste
Method:
To make the dough, combine the flour, eggs, water and 1/2 tsp. salt. Knead mixture. Let rest for 30 minutes. Mix the ground beef, ground pork, onions, 1 tsp. salt, pepper and garlic together. Cut the dough into three equally sized pieces and roll each one into a cylinder the diameter of a finger. Cut each cylinder into pieces the size of a walnut, then roll each piece into a very thin flat cake with a diameter of about 2 inches. Put some of the ground meat mixture in the center of each flat cake (quite a lot, but not so much that you can’t then seal up the dough). Then fold the dough in half and join up the edges to seal them. Pinch the corners together: you should now have a ravioli-shaped “flying saucer.”
Boil the pelmeni in salted water for seven minutes, or until they float to the surface. Serve them in soup plates with sour cream or in broth.